The ecology of a cypress swamp was on full display the weekend of November 13 and 14 at Reelfoot Lake in the northwest corner of Tennessee. Highly unusual views of the dry floor of a normally flooded bottomland drew scores of hikers to the state park both days.
Led by Tennessee State Parks Interpretive Specialist David Haggard, people ranging from ages 4 to 74 thronged to see the spectacle caused by drought conditions since May 2010. According to Evan Jones of Reelfoot Outdoors (reelfoot.com, Accessed 11-19-2010) the water level stands at 10.3 feet, and the last time the lake dried up was 25 years ago during a state-initiatied drawdown for the purpose of controlling exotic fish. The current level is only one foot higher than the lowest lake level ever recorded by the U.S. Geological Survey: 9.3 feet in November 1953.
Haggard concocted the idea for this hike because it allowed access on foot to one of his favorite parts of the park. The area's mighty cypress trees stand like grisled kings, surrounded at their bases by "knees" from 7 inches to 7 feet high, suggesting castles, demons, and ghosts. The ground underfoot felt surprisingly springy, carpeted by a thick layer of cypress needles and a small green plant called feather foil.
Bald Eagles and Their Nest
Having participated in the reintroduction of the bald eagle to Reelfoot Lake in the 1980s, Haggard regaled the group with stories of nests he had visited. He explained how the "hacking" process for raising wild birds without exposure to humans works. (If young birds are fed by humans, they cannot grow up "wild.") The hike wound past two abandoned towers used during the hacking process to house young eagles high in the trees. While he was discussing the eagles, as if on cue, hikers spotted two adult eagles soaring overhead, unmistakeable with their white heads and tails.
Later, Haggard found his favorite eagle's nest perched seemingly at the very crest of an ancient cypress. Looking like a neatly formed but massive pile of sticks, the nest easily measured about 8 x 8 feet. Currently, there are 17 known bald eagle nests around Reelfoot, but Haggard is certain there are more.
Reelfoot's Venerable Cypress
Reelfoot lake formed in 1812 when a massive earthquake split the earth. Now, beneath the lake lie the remains of the forests from that time, creating fantastic fish habitat. Some of the cypress on view during the hike were easily 300 to 400 years old, already ancient by the time the earthquake occurred.
The pattern of water flow, deep and shallow channels, and even beaver trails had been laid bare by the drought. Some of the largest trees at the base were "beaver trees," so called because their hollow interiors are used as safe, snug homes by beavers. One little girl on the hike counted 16 holes leading down into the base of a huge cypress.
In most places, with the exception of cypress knees rising from the ground, the forest floor was open, allowing plenty of space for the many hikers to spread out. Haggard explained that there are two theories explaining the function of cypress knees. One is that they are used for gas exchange, as in a regular system of roots, the other is that they serve as additional support for trees that must withstand the ebb and flow of swamp waters. Possibly both explanations are true.
The cypress located in the "deepest" sections of the now dry swamp bed lacked knees. Instead, they were anchored solely by the innermost section of their deep tap roots, while their trunks at the base flared out just above the normal water level, creating an umbrella effect. These "umbrella trees" are the best spots to fish, according to Haggard, and "if you're not getting your line caught, you're not fishing close enough to the tree!"
After a circuitous two-mile route through the magically transformed forest, Haggard invited the group to return and observe the trees during the wet season. Reelfoot Lake State Park offers guided canoe trips through the area each March and April. Visitors should consult the park website for more information.
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